Everyone's Blog Posts - Smokin' Scouts Club
2024-03-19T10:31:47Z
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profiles/blog/feed?xn_auth=no
engines
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2018-06-23:718234:BlogPost:25385
2018-06-23T21:31:19.000Z
james seibert
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/jamesseibert
<p>Hello Hello ! Didn't know this sight still viable. Good to hear it is. Please excuse this posting. I am an old luddite on the computer. Just wanted to put out there that I still have those motors and am about ready to scrap them. Listed under James Seibert Phone (509) 248-8708. Also to Eldon would like to stay a member for a while. Thanks.</p>
<p>Hello Hello ! Didn't know this sight still viable. Good to hear it is. Please excuse this posting. I am an old luddite on the computer. Just wanted to put out there that I still have those motors and am about ready to scrap them. Listed under James Seibert Phone (509) 248-8708. Also to Eldon would like to stay a member for a while. Thanks.</p>
1980 Diesel Scout II for Sale--Nissan 633T
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2014-08-01:718234:BlogPost:19397
2014-08-01T00:41:29.000Z
Brian Quarnstrom
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/BrianQuarnstrom
<p><span><span>This has the stock Nissan 633 Turbo engine-</span><br></br><span>Body is average and minimal rust but does need some interior TLC. Rarely driven. Odometer and speedometer don't work and didn't when I bought it.</span></span></p>
<p><span>Some work done since I bought it:</span><br></br><span>Radiator</span><br></br><span>Brake booster</span><br></br><span>rebuilt alternator</span></p>
<p><span>Runs well. Occasionally the brakes go hard so that will need to be trouble shot. Also, a small…</span></p>
<p><span><span>This has the stock Nissan 633 Turbo engine-</span><br/><span>Body is average and minimal rust but does need some interior TLC. Rarely driven. Odometer and speedometer don't work and didn't when I bought it.</span></span></p>
<p><span>Some work done since I bought it:</span><br/><span>Radiator</span><br/><span>Brake booster</span><br/><span>rebuilt alternator</span></p>
<p><span>Runs well. Occasionally the brakes go hard so that will need to be trouble shot. Also, a small electrical drain (could be mitigated with a solar trickle charger). I bought it in 2009 in Missouri and the odometer was not working so not sure of the mileage. A link to the pictures are below. I have a top on it now.</span></p>
<p><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t0ndjvbfjvw6yle/AAD8KHKOtPFzXcebMXFXOUm5a">https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t0ndjvbfjvw6yle/AAD8KHKOtPFzXcebMXFXOUm5a</a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Brian</p>
<p>Golden, CO</p>
<p>303-946-1403</p>
NISSAN DIESEL 6CYD.
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2012-11-04:718234:BlogPost:15687
2012-11-04T05:30:00.000Z
JOSEPH S.
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/JOSEPHS
<p>I HAVE A NISSAN DIESEL MOTOR THAT CAME OF A 4X4 SCOUT I WOULD LIKE TO SELL IT I LIVE IN SAN DIEGO</p>
<p>CALIFORNIA E-MAIL= paloranch@yahoo.com</p>
<p>I HAVE A NISSAN DIESEL MOTOR THAT CAME OF A 4X4 SCOUT I WOULD LIKE TO SELL IT I LIVE IN SAN DIEGO</p>
<p>CALIFORNIA E-MAIL= paloranch@yahoo.com</p>
used engines
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2011-12-21:718234:BlogPost:12083
2011-12-21T06:10:10.000Z
james seibert
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/jamesseibert
<p> Hello out there ! Not to sure if this is the right place for this or not but here goes. I have two (2) SD 33 engines that I have no use for and was wondering if anyone out there could use them. One is disassembled for rebuild the other is still together. Both seam to be missing their fuel lines but otherwise are all there. Was hopeing to get a little for them,but more than that wanted them put to good use rather than going for scrap. Any interest please give a shout. Thanks. Jim…</p>
<p> Hello out there ! Not to sure if this is the right place for this or not but here goes. I have two (2) SD 33 engines that I have no use for and was wondering if anyone out there could use them. One is disassembled for rebuild the other is still together. Both seam to be missing their fuel lines but otherwise are all there. Was hopeing to get a little for them,but more than that wanted them put to good use rather than going for scrap. Any interest please give a shout. Thanks. Jim Seibert 509/248-8708 </p>
My Beloved Diesel Scout Died......
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2011-11-13:718234:BlogPost:9883
2011-11-13T14:21:42.000Z
Eldon McFarling
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/ihdiesel
<p></p>
<div align="center"><b>A moment of silence please</b></div>
<div align="center"></div>
<br></br> <br></br> Today my beloved International Scout with a Nissan Diesel engine passed on. The victim of a cracked piston. She was a good engine. Kind and easy to start on a warm morning with just a whiff of ether. Never asked for much more than a tank of fuel every other week, and some oil. Lots and lots of oil. <br></br> <br></br> <br></br> <br></br> In later life she did start to hit the bottle more and more. What…
<p></p>
<div align="center"><b>A moment of silence please</b></div>
<div align="center"></div>
<br/> <br/> Today my beloved International Scout with a Nissan Diesel engine passed on. The victim of a cracked piston. She was a good engine. Kind and easy to start on a warm morning with just a whiff of ether. Never asked for much more than a tank of fuel every other week, and some oil. Lots and lots of oil. <br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> In later life she did start to hit the bottle more and more. What was once an occasional drink became a gallon every week. Sure she got hooked on the oil. 15W40, 30, 40, even 50 weight, it didn't matter. In the end Her habit was about a quart a day. We tried to break her of the addiction, we gave her treatments, Gunk, STP, SeaFoam, Rislone. Nothing helped, not even injector cleaner. Alas Betty Ford never had a refinery.<br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> She began to smoke more & more, sometimes so excessive she appeared to be on fire. A hazard to motorists Smokey Bear said. Excessive emissions the CARB said. She was told to cut down on the smoke or be parked, parted, or crushed. Her crankcase vent was even routed to the air intake so she could swallow the excess vapors, but it did not even slow her smokey and smelly fumes, or her excessive leakage. <br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> Her body began to sag with age, a combination of rust & dents had taken its toll. The cancer was spreading slowly, but surely through her entire body. All attempts to slow it, or stop it had failed. The cost of major surgery so great that her useful life could only be extended for a short time, and with costly life support the entire time.<br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> In the end maybe it was the sight of the NEW truck with a PowerStroke Diesel engine sitting in the garage that pushed her over the edge. Shinier, younger, with a twin entry turbocharger, a bigger set of exhaust manifolds, and a split shot, direct injection HEUI fuel system. She knew that she would be cast aside to the junkheap. A new member of the "Scrap Diesel Scouts Club." <br/> <br/> <br/> So in the end she went out with a bang. Knowing that the new vehicle was a part of a huge buildup of upgrades, expense, and debt, going out now would leave a lasting memory.<br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> So this weekend will be our last together. We will be set up for viewing in my back yard. Mourners are asked to bring metric wrenches, sleeve pullers, oil absorbent, and a cutting torch in place of gifts. An engine hoist will be real nice too. A wrecker or roll back would even be better.<br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> Services and interment will be Saturday around 11:00 am at Acme Diesel Recyclers on Rudolf Diesel Road, El Cajon, California.<br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> <br/>
<div align="center"><b>May She Rest In Peace in IH Scout Heaven</b></div>
<div align="center">(Or be resurrected as body parts for Japanese automobiles)</div>
<br/>
<div align="center">©Hung Phat Diesel™</div>
<p></p>
**OIL FILTER WARNING**
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2011-10-23:718234:BlogPost:9385
2011-10-23T20:00:00.000Z
Eldon McFarling
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/ihdiesel
<p>I thought there was some progress on this issue from past contact I made with WIX filters, Carquest, and NAPA. I see something changed, the Wix website again lists a bunch of incorrect filter applications for Nissan Diesel Powerd IH Scouts. The air, fuel, and oil filters are incorrect. using the wrong filters WILL cause major engine damage. See the filter list for the correct filter numbers. copied below are documents with past communications with WIX, and a bulletin showing the correct…</p>
<p>I thought there was some progress on this issue from past contact I made with WIX filters, Carquest, and NAPA. I see something changed, the Wix website again lists a bunch of incorrect filter applications for Nissan Diesel Powerd IH Scouts. The air, fuel, and oil filters are incorrect. using the wrong filters WILL cause major engine damage. See the filter list for the correct filter numbers. copied below are documents with past communications with WIX, and a bulletin showing the correct installation of the oil filter.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>oil filter problem 1:</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Wrong filter. Wix has incorrectly substituted a ISUZU cartridge oil filter for the proper filter. These filters are available from Wix, NAPA, and Carquest. BEWARE! best advice is just don't buy filters from these places.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>here is a pic showing the physical difference between the proper filter design and the Wix / Isuzu filter</p>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946866?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946866?profile=original" width="600" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<ol start="1">
<li>The rubber sealing gasket on the header end of the filter is smaller diameter than the original. it is close to the diameter of the mating surface on the header, but since the formed metal guide for the thru-bolt is slightly bigger than the thru-bolt, so the filter drops down slightly. This positions the edge of the gasket past the edge of the mating surface on the header. pressureized oil can easily push this seal out of place, and bypass the filter.</li>
<li>The cannister end of the filter has a grommett attached. The grommett measures 16mm ID, the Nissan thru-bolt measures 14mm. This 2mm gap will allow quite a bit of unfiltered oil past at normal oil pressure. Since the sealing washer that comes with the original filter is not included in the package there is no way to even attempt to get the grommett to seal with the stock spring and backup washer.</li>
<li>The proper cut gasket for the canister is not included in the package, nor is the thru-bolt seal, or thru-bolt sealing washer.</li>
</ol>
<p> </p>
<p>Problem 2. Incorrect installation:</p>
<p> </p>
<p>an all to common problem with the canister oil filter is the spring and spring seat are left out when the filter is replaced. this has the same effect as no filter at all. Here is a drawing showing the proper location of parts.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946902?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946902?profile=original" width="500" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>If the spring seat (#14) is missing you can use a similar sized flat washer as shown below</p>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70947013?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70947013?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p> For the spring you can locate a similar sized compression spring from a hardware store, etc. Use Nissan Part number 15291-90003 for the spring seat and 15224-61501 for the spring.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Air filter problem. Incorrect size:</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The Wix replacement air filter for the 1980 SD33T engines is too short, and the wrong design for the housing. this will allow dirt and unfiltered air to bypass the filter and destroy the engine. The only choices for the 1980 air filter are the genuine NISSAN filter PN 16546-73025, or K&N PN E9080</p>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://ihdiesel.com/archive/OIL_FILTER_WARNING.htm" target="_blank">OIL FILTER WARNING</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://dieselscout.ning.com/profiles/blogs/filters-for-diesel-scouts" target="_self">FILTERS FOR DIESEL SCOUTS</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://ihdiesel.com/archive/filters.html" target="_blank">MORE FILTERS</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>additional documents can be downloaded <a target="_blank" href="http://ihdiesel.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=329">HERE</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
FILTERS FOR DIESEL SCOUTS
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2011-10-23:718234:BlogPost:9183
2011-10-23T15:00:00.000Z
Eldon McFarling
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/ihdiesel
<p><br></br> <b>OIL FILTERS - ALL YEARS</b><br></br> <br></br>
Nissan - 15208-61525<br></br>
Baldwin - PT-153<br></br>
FleetGuard - LF 720<br></br>
AC DELCO - PF-1052<br></br>
Purolator - L44754<br></br>
FRAM - CH3505 </p>
<p>Hastings LF365</p>
<p>*NOTE*</p>
<p>NAPA - Carquest - Wix DOES NOT have the proper filter</p>
<p>See the <a href="http://dieselscout.ning.com/profiles/blogs/oil-filter-warning" target="_self">OIL FILTER WARNING PAGE</a><br></br> <br></br> <b>AIR FILTERS</b> 1976 thru 1979<br></br>
<br></br>
SD33 Normally…</p>
<p><br/> <b>OIL FILTERS - ALL YEARS</b><br/>
<br/>
Nissan - 15208-61525<br/>
Baldwin - PT-153<br/>
FleetGuard - LF 720<br/>
AC DELCO - PF-1052<br/>
Purolator - L44754<br/>
FRAM - CH3505 </p>
<p>Hastings LF365</p>
<p>*NOTE*</p>
<p>NAPA - Carquest - Wix DOES NOT have the proper filter</p>
<p>See the <a target="_self" href="http://dieselscout.ning.com/profiles/blogs/oil-filter-warning">OIL FILTER WARNING PAGE</a><br/> <br/>
<b>AIR FILTERS</b> 1976 thru 1979<br/>
<br/>
SD33 Normally Aspirated<br/>
FRAM - CA-133<br/>
Baldwin - PA-1735<br/>
WIX - 42061<br/>
FleetGuard - AF338<br/>
AC DELCO - A218-C<br/>
K&N - E-1090<br/>
<br/>
SD33T 1980</p>
<p>IH 571750C1</p>
<p>Nissan 16546-73025</p>
<p>K&N - E-9080<br/> <br/>
<b>FUEL FILTER - PRIMARY</b> Spin-on, mounts on CORE SUPPORT 1976 thru 1979<br/>
<br/>
LONG STYLE<br/>
Baldwin - BF-979<br/>
FleetGuard - FF5020<br/>
WIX - 33341<br/>
<br/>
SHORT STYLE<br/>
Baldwin - BF-984<br/>
FleetGuard - FF196<br/>
WIX - 33339<br/>
<br/>
<b>FUEL FILTER - SECONDARY</b> Cartridge filter, mounts in canister ABOVE INJECTOR PUMP- ALL YEARS<br/>
IH 478037C1<br/>
Nissan - 16444-99125<br/>
Baldwin - PF-861<br/>
FleetGuard - FF221</p>
Fuel Filter
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2011-03-29:718234:BlogPost:5683
2011-03-29T17:12:09.000Z
Brent L
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/BrentL
Anyone in the Houston area know where I can find a fuel filter for my 78 Scout? ordered on on scout parts and they waited 5 days to tell me it will take 10 days to get one in.
Anyone in the Houston area know where I can find a fuel filter for my 78 Scout? ordered on on scout parts and they waited 5 days to tell me it will take 10 days to get one in.
Hydro-Boost your brakes
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2009-03-14:718234:BlogPost:3282
2009-03-14T08:30:00.000Z
Eldon McFarling
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/ihdiesel
This article was published in Binder Bulletin #19 February 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
HYDRO-BOOST YOUR BRAKES<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
What is Hydro-Boost?<br />
<br />
Hydro-Boost is the name of a hydraulic power brake booster patented by Bendix in 1974. The Hydro-Boost unit is used to increase fluid pressure in the brake system, while reducing pedal effort. This unit does the same job as a vacuum booster, and is connected to the brake system the same way. The main difference is the Hydro-Boost uses pressurized fluid from the power steering…
This article was published in Binder Bulletin #19 February 2000<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
HYDRO-BOOST YOUR BRAKES<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
What is Hydro-Boost?<br />
<br />
Hydro-Boost is the name of a hydraulic power brake booster patented by Bendix in 1974. The Hydro-Boost unit is used to increase fluid pressure in the brake system, while reducing pedal effort. This unit does the same job as a vacuum booster, and is connected to the brake system the same way. The main difference is the Hydro-Boost uses pressurized fluid from the power steering system to create its assist. The Hyro-Boost system was designed to replace vacuum assisted brake boosters used in car, and light truck applications. Safety regulations governing stopping distance, and brake pedal effort, plus the reduced vacuum, and higher under hood temperatures from emission controls were some of the reasons the Hydro-Boost was developed.<img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946777?profile=original" alt="" width="405" height="370" style="float: right;"/><br />
<br />
Some of the Hydro-Boost features are:<br />
<br />
• Higher Boost pressure available<br />
• Compact size<br />
• Vacuum source not required<br />
• Faster response time<br />
• Lower pedal effort both assisted, and unassisted<br />
<br />
<br />
Since the Hydro-Boost operates without the need for a vacuum source it is ideal for Diesel powered vehicles. Turbocharged, supercharged, or modified gasoline engine powered vehicles are also applications were the Hydro-Boost works well. Even stock gasoline engines can benefit from less hoses & connections to cause vacuum leaks, and rob manifold vacuum from the engine.<br />
<br />
There are two versions of Hydro-Boost units that have been used. The original Hydro-boost has an accumulator that uses a spring or pressurized gas in a canister to provide stored energy for 1-2 power assisted brake applications with the engine stopped. The Hydro-Boost II has the reserve system incorporated into the main power piston, making it smaller, lighter, and it also has fewer parts.<br />
<br />
The Hydro-Boost is connected to the power steering pump, and steering unit by three hoses, a pressure hose from the pump to booster, a pressure hose from the booster to the steering gear, and a return hose from the booster to the pump. The Hydro-Boost receives pressurized fluid from the power steering pump which is diverted to the power piston by a spool valve in the Hydro-Boost unit when the brakes are applied. The spool valve in the booster also controls the flow of fluid to the steering gear, which receives a constant flow of fluid regardless of whether the brakes are applied, or not applied. Because of the spool valve action, the power brake unit and power steering unit do not interfere with one another whether at rest, or in use. The design of the Hydro-Boost permits the vehicle operator to apply the brakes manually if pressurized fluid is not available from the pump, or reserve system.<br />
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946791?profile=original" alt="" width="600" height="318"/></p>
<br />
<br />
Installing a Hydro-Boost in a Scout II<br />
<br />
I installed a Hydro-Boost on my 1980 Diesel Scout. I had several reasons for converting to the Hydro-Boost system. The main reason was that I needed to install a larger alternator for a winch. By using the Hydro-Boost I could eliminate the alternator driven vacuum pump, and replace the stock alternator with a higher output unit. A secondary reason was the original vacuum boosted system did not work as well as desired.<br />
<br />
I would like to point out that installing a Hydro-Boost is not a "Cure All" for every possible brake problem. If you have problems with your current vacuum booster, such as a leaking diaphragm, replacing it with a Hydro-Boost would eliminate the problem, and provide you with greater braking power. If you have a problem such as worn shoes, pads, rotors, or drums those problems should be identified, and corrected first. Make sure the overall condition of the system is in good shape before you begin.<br />
<br />
<br />
Another point I would like to make is any modification made to your brake system can affect the safety of the vehicle, and the safety of others. Make sure you thoroughly understand the system and the installation procedure before you begin. Always make sure the system operates properly, and has no leaks before driving the vehicle. The most important safety feature of a vehicle is its braking system. Typically the brake system must dissipate the energy of motion up to 10 times faster than it is created. The brake system should be the BEST system on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946848?profile=original" alt="" width="520" height="218"/></p>
<br />
I started by researching vehicles that used a factory installed Hydro-Boost system. I was looking for a unit that was used in a system that was similar to the Scout's brake system. I found that several models of full-size GM Diesel cars used a similar sized master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and calipers as the 1980 Scout II used. I chose a 1981 Buick LeSabre Diesel for the donor vehicle, I started by removing the booster, master cylinder, hoses, and power steering pump from the donor vehicle. The original mounting bracket was removed from the Hydro-Boost, the nut holding the bracket had to be loosened with a chisel, and then removed with channel-lock pliers. Next the original booster and master cylinder was removed from the Scout.<br />
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946963?profile=original" alt="" width="600" height="450"/></p>
<br />
Installing the Hydro-Boost requires some metal fabrication, and a slight modification to the firewall to allow clearance for the end of the booster. A 1/2" drill with a 2-1/8" hole saw is needed to enlarge the original hole in the firewall. I made a guide for the hole saw from a piece of 5" x 3" x 3/16" steel plate. For the guide plate I sawed a 2-1/8" hole thru the plate, with holes on each side to bolt thru the lower mounting holes for the original booster. The mounting plate for the Hydro-Boost was made from 3/16"thick steel plate, 3-1/2"high x 5"wide, with a 1-5/8" hole for mounting the Hydro-Boost, and 4 3/8" holes for mounting the assembly to the firewall. on a recent install I used ¼” thick plate which made the link to pedal dimension move slightly forward. This improved the pedal height and made the pedal position EXACTLY the same as the original. I would recommend using ¼” thick material for the mounting plate. after the booster & mounting bracket are assembled, the booster is positioned in place on the firewall, and bolted in place. The push rod is connected to the pedal similar to the original linkage on the vacuum booster, and secured with a washer, and cotter pin. The hole in the push rod was the same size as the original, no modification was necessary.<br />
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946899?profile=original" alt="" width="640" height="480"/></p>
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70947006?profile=original" alt="" width="640" height="480"/></p>
<br />
I opted for using the power steering pump from the Buick for two reasons. First was the need for a place to connect an additional return hose from the Hydro-Boost. This could have also been done by using a tee in the present return line from the steering gear, but I thought routing the hoses would be easier by using the pump with the provision for the additional connection. The fluid reservoir could also have been changed, but since the pump itself was identical, and had the proper connection for the hose it was easier to use the complete unit. The only change needed was to remove the pulley, and install the pulley from the original Scout pump.<br />
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70946933?profile=original" alt="" width="560" height="304"/></p>
<br />
Next I installed the master cylinder. The original Scout master cylinder does not have the proper mounting dimensions, so I used a rebuilt the same as the Buick originally used. The Buick master cylinder had a slightly larger bore than the original since it has metric dimensions. I was able to use one of the original brake lines from the Scout, and one from the Buick. I bent the lines to fit with a tubing bender. (<b>see note below</b>)<br />
<br />
The next step was to install the hoses to the Hydro-Boost unit. I was able to use the hoses from the Buick for this by bending the metal ends slightly with a tubing bender. The pressure hose from the pump is connected to the inlet port on the Hydro-Boost. The outlet from the Hydro-Boost is connected to the inlet of the steering gear. A return line from the booster and the steering gear is also used. All hose connections were metric Tube O ring style, and matched the metric connections on the steering gear of the 1980 Scout. This was something that I thought would be a problem from the start, but it worked out well for me. The pump / steering gear used for Scouts prior to 1980 used an inverted flare connection for the hoses. A Hydro-Boost from a donor vehicle before the 1980 model year would be a good choice for a conversion on Scouts prior to 1980.<br />
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70947016?profile=original" alt="" width="600" height="450"/></p>
<br />
The final step is to bleed the brakes, check the adjustment of the stoplight switch, fill the steering pump, and check all connections for leaks. Road test, and check for proper operation. My experience has shown a much lighter foot is needed to apply the brakes with the Hydro-boost. Use caution until you get used to the new system.<br />
<br />
I have been very satisfied with the Hydro-Boost. The brakes require much less pedal effort both with the engine running, and without. The braking power is greatly improved as well. The added room in the engine compartment is also a bonus.<br />
<br />
Can the Hydro-Boost be used on other vehicles?<br />
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70947028?profile=original" alt="" width="500" height="375"/></p>
<br />
The compact size of the booster, along with the simplicity of installation makes it a good candidate for use in other vehicles such as pickups, Travelalls, and even early model Scouts. The next project here will be a 1967 1200B originally equipped with manual brakes. Stay tuned for more.<br />
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/70947108?profile=original" alt="" width="500" height="375"/></p>
<br />
Eldon McFarling<br />
EldonMcf@aol.com<br />
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Note: Neither the author, or the Binder Bulletin can assume any responsibility for any modifications that you make to your vehicle.<br />
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NEW INFO 2005<br />
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I found a master cylinder from a 1979 Chevrolet Diesel pickup that is originally equipped with Hydro-Boost uses a master cylinder with the proper mounting for the booster, and has both ports with standard threads identical to the original Scout master cylinder. This simplifies the installation since you do not need to replace or modify the fittings on the original lines on the Scout. The only change is a slight bending of the line to connect to the relocated master cylinder. Bendix PN: 11944
Parts Sources
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2008-07-24:718234:BlogPost:2702
2008-07-24T00:09:39.000Z
Eldon McFarling
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/ihdiesel
adding info for Scout and Diesel parts sources<br />
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Fellow Diesel Scout owner Ray Mull from Geronimo, TX has Scout Traveler liftgate cyinders available.<br />
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I was wanting to help the IH community too in some small way. I was hoping you would add this to your list of vendors or tell me how. As a merchant, all my life, I know how important a good source of quality parts at a reasonable price can be for anyone, but particularly for the IH owner. As I seek out parts for my own '80…
adding info for Scout and Diesel parts sources<br />
<br />
Fellow Diesel Scout owner Ray Mull from Geronimo, TX has Scout Traveler liftgate cyinders available.<br />
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===============<br />
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I was wanting to help the IH community too in some small way. I was hoping you would add this to your list of vendors or tell me how. As a merchant, all my life, I know how important a good source of quality parts at a reasonable price can be for anyone, but particularly for the IH owner. As I seek out parts for my own '80 Traveler SD33T, I thought I would make available to others those items I thought were of good value that I had a lot of difficulty finding. Where possible, I will stock items from the mfg. so I can ship immediately, as with the following.<br />
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My first 'offering' to this end is gas springs for the '80 Traveler's full size rear hatch @ $25/ea. + $5/ea. S&H in the lower 48. They are North American made, snap right over the 10mm mounting balls and have a built-in safety latch.<br />
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Replacement for IH part # 472518-C3<br />
Also know as: '76-'80 Scout Traveler Liftgate Assist Shocks for Fiberglass Traveltop<br />
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SPECS:<br />
27" extended length<br />
15" compressed length<br />
12"stroke<br />
22mm tube dia.<br />
10mm rod dia.<br />
10mm ball end attachments with built-in safety latch<br />
1 year warranty<br />
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Ray Mull<br />
Emporium<br />
6917 N. State Hwy 123, Seguin<br />
P.O. Box 32<br />
Geronimo, TX 78115-0032<br />
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I can take Visa/MC/Disc cards direct + PayPal or Revolution Money Exchange on-line payment methods, either under my email address: Emporium@GeronimoTexas.com.<br />
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Thank you,<br />
Ray
How long have you had your Scout
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2007-07-11:718234:BlogPost:1242
2007-07-11T13:31:44.000Z
Stewart Gregory Flint
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/flint1980
I have had mine for 18 years now and still counting and still has the SD33T in it.
I have had mine for 18 years now and still counting and still has the SD33T in it.
sd33 GP's
tag:dieselscout.ning.com,2007-07-11:718234:BlogPost:1223
2007-07-11T03:40:41.000Z
Richard Ardrey
http://dieselscout.ning.com/profile/lazertn
I show 2 pictures, one is a black ORT terra.<br></br><br></br>All the experiments I do are tried out here first.<br></br>The latest is working out well. The GP's have been replaced with 10 sec plugs that self regulate some, for the tests.<br></br>As of today 7/10/07, the key is turned on [COLD] and a light comes on for 10 sec (as well as the GP's).<br></br>When the light goes out it dims indicating that it is cold and then the sys starts blinking the light and GP's. Now you crank until starting. The blinking of…
I show 2 pictures, one is a black ORT terra.<br/><br/>All the experiments I do are tried out here first.<br/>The latest is working out well. The GP's have been replaced with 10 sec plugs that self regulate some, for the tests.<br/>As of today 7/10/07, the key is turned on [COLD] and a light comes on for 10 sec (as well as the GP's).<br/>When the light goes out it dims indicating that it is cold and then the sys starts blinking the light and GP's. Now you crank until starting. The blinking of the GP's continues until the sd33 warms up and when the temp is such that it will start without GP's the sys turns off the GP's<br/>When the engine is running the 10sec timer is cut out using a OIL pressure sw.<br/>When the warm TEMP is reached ( indicated by the gauge sender) the GP's are turned off!<br/>If the sd33 sits long enough as to not start by its self , but is still warm, the lack of oil pressure will start the afterglow sys permitting starting and then turn off when oil pressure is seen.<br/>Any time the engine is cold the light will be dim even if GP's are off because of a safety timer that turns off the GP sys after 2 min. If the sd33 still is running rough a cycling of the key (off/on) reinstates the GP afterglow for another 2 min. or until warm temp is reached.<br/><br/>The safety circuit is because of: forgetting the key on overnight will cause the GP sys to come on by its self as the sd33 gets cold!!!<br/><br/>This temp sensing setup will not work with the OME gauge CVR--- only an electronic one.<br/><br/>Last night I proved on the bench that the OME Y103 GP's will afterglow with this system indefinitely,<br/>even though they are not self regulating. This means<br/>that this system will work with the only difference of<br/>the start glow time will be 22 sec. Every thing else is the same but the afterglow time on is twice as long!<br/><br/>If all goes well , in the next few weeks , I will install this sys. in the red scout shown and drive it to the Nationals.<br/>dick Any inquiries should be directed to dick@ihscoutsrule.com as I check it dayly.<br/>